Antes de mi viaje, sin embargo, necesitaba informarme sobre lo que había acontecido exactamente un año antes, por lo que me dispuse a entrevistar a varios conocidos egipcios: un hombre y una mujer de distintas edades. Tras las entrevistas, estas fueron las ideas, en rasgos generales, que saqué en claro:
Enero-Febrero de 2011, la revolución.
Todos y cada uno de los sacrificios que se llevaron a cabo en la lucha por nuestros derechos y libertades merecieron mucho la pena. Estamos preparados para una lucha sin fin, para alcanzar un Egipto democrático y sin corrupción. A decir verdad, nadie pensaba que sería posible derrocar a Hosni Mubarak después de casi 30 años aferrado al poder, aunque el precio que se tuvo que pagar para conseguirlo fue alto: muchos de los manifestantes murieron, otros todavía se recuperan de sus heridas.
Jamás podremos olvidar el primer día de las manifestaciones: los grupos se arremolinaban tímidamente y con miedo. De decenas, pasamos a cientos, miles y, de repente, de la noche a la mañana, fue como si todo el pueblo egipcio se revelara en las calles de las principales ciudades de Egipto, pero especialmente en la plaza de Tahrir en El Cairo; contra la pobreza, el desempleo rampante, en aras de un Egipto libre y con el propósito de derrocar a un gobierno corrupto y autoritario. Muchos de estos manifestantes acudieron a las protestas como reacción al brutal asesinato del joven Khaled Said a manos de la policía mientras grababa un vídeo que revelaba como traficaban con drogas. Sin quererlo, Khaled se convirtió en la chispa que necesitaban los egipcios para encenderse.
El pueblo egipcio sale a la calle a festejar la primera victoria de la revolución, pero a sabiendas de que el camino a recorrer todavía era largo y lleno de obstáculos.
Marzo de 2012, mi visita a Egipto.
"Fundado en el 3100 antes de Cristo, Egipto tiene hoy una población de aproximadamente 80 millones cuyo idioma oficial es el árabe. El país llevó a cabo su primera revolución moderna en 1919, estableciendo la independencia en 1922. La continua inestabilidad dio lugar a una segunda revolución en 1952 y la consecuente creación de la República de Egipto en 1953".
Egipto se enfrenta a una crisis de escasez de gasolina por segunda vez en 2012. El camino del aeropuerto a casa de mis anfitriones no era largo, pero se hizo interminable. Si ya de por sí el tráfico de El Cairo es infernal, a esto se le unían las largas colas de automóviles que serpenteaban la ciudad en busca de las pocas estaciones de servicios que suministran gasolina. La revolución ha traído como consecuencia una reducción del 37% en el número de turistas. El número de visitantes en 2011 fue de 9 millones, mientras que el país recibía una media de 14 millones en los años precedentes. Hay que tener en cuenta que el turismo era una de las principales fuentes de ingreso del país, empleando hasta un 12% del total de la fuerza laboral del país. La libra se sigue devaluando, sin embargo, los salarios permanecen inamovibles, dejando una sensación de que los egipcios no se pueden permitir muchos lujos.
Uno de los destinos turísticos más importantes de El Cairo es Khan El-Khalili que se remonta a 1382 y está situado en el antiguo barrio islámico. Desde su creación, el mercado ha atraído a visitantes de todo el mundo. Cuando preguntaba a mis amigos y familiares sobre este mercado, había un denominador común: el bullicio, por desgracia, al igual que el resto de los sitios históricos de Egipto, Khan el-Khalili se enfrenta a los cambios de la revolución que han afectando significativamente a los comerciantes y al mercado histórico en su conjunto, especialmente teniendo en cuenta los turistas son su cliente número uno. "Hemos tenido este negocio familiar desde hace casi 100 años. Todavía me acuerdo de como mi abuelo lo dirigía, pero con estas condiciones me temo que voy a tener que cerrar pronto".

Pero todavía quedaba un sitio en El Cairo donde fui capaz de evadirme de todo este caos y es que presenciar las pirámides de Giza me produjo una sensación extrema de serenidad, un lugar que desde tiempos inmemoriales ha levantado la curiosidad de sus visitantes con sus numerosas historias, enigmas y misterios. Eminentes científicos y arqueólogos de renombre mundial han intentado darnos una explicación lógica y coherente sobre el significado de las pirámides, el por qué de su tamaño y localización. Para el turista distraído, las grandes pirámides son un simple conjunto de bloques de piedras decentemente ordenados, pero para otros muchos las pirámides representan algo que va más allá. La pirámide de Keops también conocida como la "Gran Pirámide" es el punto culminante, y está catalogada como una de las siete maravillas del mundo antiguo.
¿Cómo se tallaron y transportaron los bloques de piedras?
Hay dos salas imprescindibles y ambas se encuentran en el primer piso; una es el tesoro de Tutankamón: con la máscara de oro y el sarcófago de su funeral, con diferencia las piezas más extraordinarias expuestas en el museo y, otro elemento de gran atracción, es la sala de las momias reales, a la que se accede mediante el pago de una entrada adicional, y que acoge a grandes personalidades de la historia de Egipto, para los que parece que no existió el paso del tiempo gracia a la habilidad de los maestros embalsamadores y el clima típico del Valle de los Reyes. La figura más prominente, arrugada por el paso del tiempo, es la de Ramsés II, tal vez el Rey más grande de Egipto, gran líder y magistral comunicador.
![]() |
| Mummy of Ramses II |
Junio de 2013, Egipto hoy.
Para algunos la situación ha verdaderamente empeorado, existen muchos intereses encontrados que dificultan el progreso y la consecución de un nuevo Egipto. Muchos ciudadanos son partidarios de apoyar al nuevo presidente, pero piensan que el resto de partidos políticos se encuentran en una lucha continua por el poder y destruyen, en vez de ayudar a construir un nuevo Egipto.
Otro número considerable de ciudadanos piensa que los Hermanos Musulmanes sólo gobiernan para sus votantes y que, además, usan la venganza como método de represalia sobre aquellos que en su día gobernaron y con los que se sintieron oprimidos. Sin ir más lejos, el propio presidente actual estuvo en prisión bajo el régimen Mubarak. Las minorías religiosas, como los cristianos coptos, esperaban que la caída del régimen opresivo de Egipto sería el comienzo de una nueva era de mayor libertad de expresión e igualdad, por esa misma razón, formaron parte de los cientos de miles de manifestantes en la Plaza Tahrir en enero de 2011. El ascenso de los islamistas al poder en Egipto, después de la revolución, les ha empujado a una mayor marginación y acoso, a pesar de que el presidente Mohamed Morsi prometiera ser un líder para todos los egipcios. De acuerdo con esta corriente de pensamiento, no sólo ha empeorado la situación económica, sino que también lo han hecho otras áreas críticas como el turismo o la seguridad. Ha aumentado el paro, el tráfico ha empeorado, la suciedad en las calles se ha tornado un serio problema y la enseñanza carece de una calidad mínima.
Mientras tanto, el artículo 2, estipula que "los principios de la ley islámica (sharia) son la fuente principal de la legislación" manteniéndose sin cambios desde la anterior Constitución y acabando con las esperanzas de un Estado laico.
¿Soluciones? Existen, pero será un proceso costoso, duradero y que precisa la ayuda de todos y cada uno de los egipcios. Empezando por emprender medidas y procesos justos, tendentes, en primer lugar, a condenar a cualquier persona que haya violado la ley, cualquier persona que haya actuado en contra de los intereses generales del pueblo egipcio y castigando con dureza la corrupción.
La educación, el trabajo y la dignidad son los pilares en los que el pueblo egipcio se ha de asentar. Egipto necesita un verdadero líder que represente a los egipcios en su conjunto, que tenga respuestas a los problemas reales, la justicia social y la igualdad económica.
"La lucha por la justicia y contra la corrupción no es una lucha fácil. Nunca ha sido y nunca lo será. Se cobra un peaje en nosotros mismos, nuestras familias, nuestros amigos y, especialmente, en nuestros hijos. El precio que pagamos bien merece la pena si lo que entra en defensa es nuestra dignidad".-Frank Serpico

Finally, I am here in Cairo, the capital of the Pharaohs Empire. It looks unbelievable, but for one reason or another I could never get to visit this country. The proximity to Istanbul, just two hours by plane, made it quite affordable though. It was a long weekend, just three days, a really short time in my opinion, but it was very intense indeed: crowds of people, traffic, the stunning sunset over the Nile, the uncertainty about the consequences of the revolution, a mixture of decaying neighborhoods with classical facades and neighborhoods immersed in a supreme anarchy, smells, flavours, and so much life, both by day and night, 24 hours. But, over all, I felt that Egyptians were really hospitable and made me feel really welcome everywhere, but my trip would not have been so great without B.I and her parents, that treated me like part of their family, being superb hosts in the few hours I spent by their side. Not only was I introduced to the Egyptian cuisine by them, but also masterfully guided to the main tourist sites in the city.Before arriving to Egypt, however, I needed to find out about what had happened just a year before, so I set out to interview several Egyptians acquaintances: a man and a woman of different ages. This is what the interviews revealed to me:
January-February, 2011, the revolution.
| @ Tahrir Square. |
Each and every one of the sacrifices that were made were really worth in the fight for our rights and freedoms. We are ready for an endless struggle to achieve a democratic Egypt without corruption. In fact, no one thought it would be possible to overthrow Hosni Mubarak after nearly 30 years in power, but the price we had to pay to achieve that was high: many demonstrators were killed; others are still recovering from their injuries.
We can never forget the first day of the demonstrations, few groups started to gather timidly and fearfully. There were dozens of them, then hundreds, thousands and, suddenly, from one day to the next, it was like if all the Egyptian people were demonstrating in the streets of Egypt's major cities, but especially in Tahrir Square in Cairo; against poverty and rampant unemployment, for the sake of a free Egypt and in order to overthrow a corrupt and authoritarian government. Many of these demonstrators attended protests in reaction to the brutal murder of the young Khaled Said by the police while he was filming a video that revealed how the police was trafficking with drugs. Unwittingly, Khaled became the spark needed to ignite the Egyptians.
In the intense 18 days that elapsed from the start of the revolution, we were able to envision the great qualities of the Egyptian people, among which we can find fearlessness and courage, focusing on their goal with persistence and with an unshakable determination despite all obstacles that were found along the way. There was an amazing atmosphere of solidarity and comradeship in Tahrir Square, which resulted in an unprecedented massive influx of people, marked by a great diversity of social classes who sacrificed their time to clean the streets and protect historic buildings. But partisan groups and factions of the Mubarak regime ot willing to make things easy and protesters became true heroes who tried to defend themselves from the cruel force exerted on them by the regime, which attacked their own people with tanks, Molotov cocktails, snipers and even armed mercenaries on horseback or camels. All these attacks were premeditated, thoroughly planned and financed by all wings of power that saw how a revolution of this type could end with their supremacy. Any method seemed permissible to end up with the revolution, but the rich history and culture of Egypt went beyond political interests and took over the popular belief, giving strength to all those who fought and risked their lives for this country.| Rest of HQ of Mubarak's National Democratic Party. |
As the days passed, Mubarak was playing a role on TV and, as a terrible actor; he delivered different episodes dedicated to illustrate his love for power, his incomprehension at the events and his rejection of his own people whom, according to him, he had dedicated all his life to. Then we went through few episodes of stubbornness and bravado while using threatening tones. But in the Mubarak's TV show, the final episode had a surprising twist. Mubarak, who was facing an overwhelming popular pressure, left office on February 11, 2011.
The Egyptian people take to the streets with their chants celebrating the first victory of the revolution, but knowing that the road ahead is still long and full of hurdles.
March 2012, my visit to Egypt.
"Founded in 3100 BC, Egypt today has a population of approximately 80 million whose official language is Arabic. The country held its first modern revolution in 1919, establishing independence in 1922. Continuing instability resulted in a second revolution in 1952 and the subsequent creation of the Republic of Egypt in 1953. "
The revolution has resulted in a reduction of 37% in the number of tourists. The number of visitors in 2011 was 9 million, while the country received an average of 14 million in earlier years. We have to bear in mind that tourism was one of the main sources of income in the country, employing up to 12% of the total workforce in the country. The Egyptian pound is devalued; however, wages remain immovable, leaving a feeling that Egyptians cannot afford many extravagances.
While walking through the main pedestrian streets, I realized the lack of tourists that once upon a time used to overflow these same streets. Tahrir and its surrounding areas still show the wounds of the revolution. As a symbol of victory appears the charred building of Mubarak's National Democratic Party, witness of the fight against his authoritarianism.
But then there was a place in Cairo where I was able to forget about the revolution and the chaos. Witnessing the pyramids of Giza produced a kind of serenity inside of me. This is a place that from time immemorial has raised the curiosity of its visitors with its many stories, riddles and mysteries. Eminent scientists and world-renowned archaeologists have tried to give us a logical and coherent explanation of the pyramids meaning, the reason for its size and location. For the distracted tourist, the Great Pyramids are a simple set of stone blocks decently ordered, but for many others the Pyramids represent something beyond. The Pyramid of Khufu also known as the "Great Pyramid" is the highlight, and is ranked as one of the seven wonders of the ancient world.
In front of the Pyramids, I was not really aware of how old these monuments were. Officially, the date of construction of the pyramids is set between the years 2700 and 2200 BC, that's to say, more than 4.000 years ago! There are no documents or hieroglyphs to determine with certainty the date of construction though. What seems virtually proved is that the design of the pyramids and orientation are related to the constellations, in what is known as the theory of the correlation of Orion, which states that the three pyramids site was determined according to the location of the three central stars of Orion's belt, and that this correlation was sought deliberately by the architects of the pyramids to facilitate the passage of the Pharaohs to a life after death according to their religious beliefs. How were the stone blocks carved and transported?
In the same plain of Giza, on a small hill, we can find the Sphinx with its 73 meters long and 20 meters high. I don't know why I imagined it would look bigger. The Sphinx's body represents the power and the physical strength, and the man's head symbolizes awareness and intelligence. The monument looks eroded showing the scares provoked by the passage of time and also because the Mamluk artillery used it as a target in the eighteenth century.
There are two essential rooms that I would recommend you to visit while in the Egyptian Museum, one is the treasure of Tutankhamun that incluedes the golden mask and the sarcophagus of his funeral, by far the most extraordinary pieces displayed in the museum, and the other is the is the room with the royal mummies, which is accessed by paying an additional entry, and that accommodates great personalities of Egypt's history. I was really impressed about the great embalming work done by the experts and even when it was done thousand of years ago, it looked like some of the mummies were still alive with hair and nails. The most prominent figure in this room, wrinkled by the passage of time, is Faraoh Ramses II, perhaps the greatest King of Egypt, superb leader and masterful communicator.
June 2013, Egypt today.
It's been two years since Hosni Mubarak was ousted as president of Egypt. Today, under the leadership of the Muslim Brotherhood, the country is still in turmoil, and many Egyptians are wondering if things are changing for the better.
For some, the situation has actually worsened; there are many competing interests that hinder the progress and achievements of a new Egypt. Many citizens are in favor of supporting the new president, but they also think the other political parties are in a continuous struggle for power and they destroy, instead of helping to build a new Egypt.
Another large number of people think that the Muslim Brotherhood are only governing for their voters and using revenge and retaliation on those who once ruled and those who once oppressed the Muslim Brotherhood in the past. The current president himself was in prison under the Mubarak regime. Religious minorities, such as Coptic Christians expected that the fall of Egypt's oppressive regime would be the beginning of a new era of greater freedom of expression and equality. Egypt's Coptic Christians were among the hundreds of thousands of protesters in Tahrir Square in January 2011 demanding their rights. The rise of Islamists to power in Egypt after the revolution made them face further marginalization and harassment, despite President Mohamed Morsi having promised to be a leader for all Egyptians. According to this current of though, not only has economic situation worsened, but also tourism, security, employment, traffic, teaching, among many other things.Article 2 of the Constitutuon states that "the principles of Islamic law (Sharia) are the main source of legislation" remaining unchanged since the previous Constitution, thus dashing hopes of a secular state.
Solutions? There are, but they will be difficult to achieve and they will take time and will require help of each and every Egyptian citizen. Starting by taking action and condemning in a fair trail all those who have violated the law, or anyone acting against the general interests of the Egyptian people, harshly punishing corruption.
Education, work and dignity are the pillars on which the Egyptian people has to start building their new State. Egypt needs a true leader to represent the Egyptians as a whole, a person who gives answers to real problems, among which there are social justice and economic equality.
"The fight for justice against corruption is never easy. It never has been and never will be. It exacts a toll on our self, our families, our friends, and especially our children. In the end, I believe, as in my case, the price we pay is well worth holding on to our dignity ". -Frank Serpico

No comments:
Post a Comment